To kick-start the series we're going to begin, as it were, at the top – with the fine art of motherboard and CPU installation. Whether you're building your machine anew, or upgrading your current one with more powerful components, the following guide will help make installing these two key components a breeze.
It's All In the Case
It's important to remember that your choice of motherboard dictates the type of CPU you can use (or, inversely, your choice of CPU will determine the type of motherboard). Similarly, modern motherboards require ATX power connectors and cases that are able to handle their peripheral ports. If you're planning to upgrade an old machine, be aware that in addition to a new CPU and motherboard you may also need to buy a new power supply and case to match.
Before you can even install the motherboard, you have to be able to get to the back plate inside the case, which is where the motherboard is mounted. Generally, modern cases use an intelligent design that allows easy slide or flip out access to the back plate, but this has not always been the case (pun intended).
Intelligent case design is a relatively new occurrence in the PC world and there are plenty of PCs around that use older, less flexible designs – i.e. cases with fixed back plates that require rummaging around in the depths of the case to install the motherboard. Additionally, some old cases may require you to remove drive bays as well to get access to the motherboard. All this doesn't stop you from upgrading old machines, they'll just be harder to work with.
Preparing to Install
Before you begin you'll need the following:
- A work area – Just a clear space where you can work and place the motherboard and other components, preferably in or on the anti-static bags they come with.
- The right tools – a Philips head screw driver, a penlight, a fine blade (such as a razor) or business card, a small plastic bag, pure isopropyl alcohol, a lint free cloth, a packet of Tim Tams, and optionally an antistatic wrist strap. You'll also need the screws and mounting spacers that come with the case which allow the motherboard to be attached to the back plate.
If you're upgrading you'll obviously need to first remove all the PCI and AGP cards and all cables from the system. Then it's just a matter of locating the screws holding it in or, if it's a particularly old system, it may use the legacy spearheaded plastic clips which are best removed by just cutting them off. Leave the CPU and RAM in the old motherboard until you are ready to transplant them to the new one.
Speaking of which: a note on handling components. Many computer components are sensitive to static electricity. If you don't have an antistatic wrist-strap handy the next best thing is to plug in the power to the case, leave it switched off, and then touch the case chassis every now and then as you work to ground yourself through the power cable. Additionally, when you hold the components try to avoid direct contact with any conductive edges – hold them along the PCB edges.
STEP 1: Prepare the case
Unscrew the case and flip or slide out the back panel that will house the motherboard.
Make a note of the holes in the back panel that align with the motherboard and then put the motherboard aside on the antistatic bag. Grab the spacers that came with the case and select five or six of the aligning holes and clip or screw them in. Set at least two to the rear edge where peripheral cards will plug in to give adequate support there. The others should be spread out to the corners and centre of the board.
You should have a back plate that slots into the back of the case which gives access to the motherboard ports (COM, USB, PS/2 ports). Insert it now, as you won't be able to slide it in after you've mounted the motherboard.
STEP 2: Mount the PSU
This will be the easiest part. Simply grab the power supply, if it isn't already installed in the case, and line it up with the holes at the back of the case. It'll only go in one way so it's hard to mess up, just make sure that you install it before you install the motherboard.
STEP 3: Mount CPU and HSF
Now that your case is prepared, leave it alone. We're going to be working with the motherboard on its own for the moment.
Take it out of the antistatic bag and place it on top of some hard foam or the antistatic packaging itself.
Ground yourself once more and then carefully place the CPU into its socket – don't push it in. You'll note that it's keyed to only slip in under the right orientation. Lever the socket's arm down until it firmly clips in.
With the CPU installed, it's now time to move on to the heatsink and fan (HSF). Before we can apply the necessary heatsink grease we have to give everything a good clean. Grab the lint free cloth and the pure isopropyl alcohol and give the CPU, heatsink underside and the blade or business card you intend to use a good clean. Be careful not to touch the surfaces afterwards, for even the oils from your fingers will interfere with the heatsink grease.
Now for the delicate part: applying the grease. A small packet should have come with the heatsink or CPU you purchased, or alternatively you can buy some thermal paste from a computer shop.
Start by squeezing a small drop of heatsink grease onto the heatsink base and then rub it in vigorously using your finger through the small plastic bag. When you're done, use the lint free cloth, sans pure alcohol, and rub all of it off. The purpose of this exercise is to fill in the microscopic gaps in the metal with heatsink grease to increase its effectiveness.
Now squeeze a very small amount of grease onto the CPU die – the raised bit in the middle – and then smear it into an even layer using your chosen smearing tool (blade or business card edge) making sure it reaches to all four corners of the die.
The layer shouldn't be so thin that you can still see the die underneath, and not so thick so that it looks like a birthday cake.
Clean the smearing utensil with some pure alcohol and also any areas around the CPU where you might have been too enthusiastic with the grease. Be sure not to touch the grease, or do anything silly like lick that Tim Tam chocolate off your fingers, as it's toxic.
Now grab the heatsink. There are as many 'easy to use' clipping mechanisms as there are Taiwanese companies making heatsinks, so exactly how yours attaches to the CPU slot will require reading of the loosely-translated manual. Generally, though, you'll need to place the heatsink directly over the CPU and be careful not to move it too much as you apply the clips. The clips are designed to hold the heatsink firmly to the CPU die, so you may need to use a little force to push it home.
Exercise a little caution at this stage of the game – take it smooth and steady – as most damage occurs at this stage.
STEP 4: Mount the motherboard
With your motherboard ready to go it's time to mount it. Ground yourself again for good luck and then lay the motherboard on top of the spacers inside the case you prepared earlier, making sure everything lines up properly, and then screw the board in place.
To do this, remove the new motherboard from its antistatic casing and then angle it into the case so the ports on the motherboard are in place in the back plate of the case. Then pivot the board into the case so that the holes in the board correspond to the spacers in the case.
STEP 5: Plug it